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Behind The Dress | Lisa

Draped tulle and Chantilly lace-bodice ball gown with crystal and organza embroidery details

With Lisa, I wanted to find a new way of looking at decoration, something that traditionally speaks to a very classic bridal vocabulary. Throughout the Fall 2013 collection, there are the invincible elements of an heirloom wedding gown — lace, beading, and draping. And you can definitely see all three at work in Lisa.

The bodice begins with a foundation of Chantilly lace, the same classic lace that’s featured elsewhere in the collection, and then it’s covered with a layer of embroidery work: a complicated but very soft, very subtle design in pearl and crystal. It shimmers and gleams in that setting of lace, and this pattern works its way across the bust on a diagonal path, for a touch of asymmetry.

We call this cluster embroidery: it’s made up of little groupings of crystal and bead elements that present themselves as spangles and little starbursts, rather than in a neat arrangement. It’s another bit of complexity, within the orderly surface of the bodice.

Finally, the embroidery is draped with a layer of fine, ruched tulle, to obscure that sparkle a little and create a multi-toned effect, a muted beauty. I love this kind of veiling effect. The straps are also ruched tulle, which sets off the shoulders, making the bare skin look even more delicate.

This same cluster embroidery continues down into the drop-waist skirt, on the bride’s right side, just enough to give an accent and a bit of interest to the skirt. This is a gathered tulle skirt, full of volume, full of layers of tulle, and the pearl and crystal clusters just break up the volume, complicating it just a bit, from the right angle in that position.

Once again, this ball gown skirt is all about volume, with layer upon layer of tulle and lace building up to a mass that’s still so light and has so many small transparencies at play within it. Lisa a dress with some simple, very big gestures: the delicate embroidery, the whiteness of the skirt, the grosgrain ribbon setting off her waist. It’s direct, beautiful, and youthful, almost innocent. It’s really a gown that celebrates time-honored tradition.

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