Kendall is one of my Luxe gowns, so it’s very romantic, very delicate. I only do two or three Luxe gowns a season, so the focus is on those extra-special details, from the exquisite laces to the really fine, old world craftsmanship.
The bodice is where you first see this refined sensibility. The strapless, drop-waist corset is covered with very finely micro-pleated French tulle that crosses the bodice in a kind of basketweave pattern, so there’s this contrasting movement to the bodice that gives it a very tonal quality. I also love the exposed ruffled seam detail in the back, for its organic, unpredictable texture. It contrasts gorgeously with an otherwise minimalist train, with flanged drapings of tulle and organza that simply cascade down the skirt.
At the bottom of the bodice, pieces of tissue organza and bias-cut tulle create a peplum effect, which cascades down the side of her skirt, wrapping around the back. It lends a beautiful, brushstroke-like movement to the sides of the ballgown: a continuous, fluid line.
Even though Kendall is a very voluminous ballgown, there’s actually no heavy crinoline in the skirt that makes it dense or heavy. Instead, the light, airy layers of fabric just collapse into each other. It’s beautifully grand, with a long train to match, but the dress never weighs her down. The layers just float around her.
Those layers of honeycomb tulle – I used this type of tulle to add a crisp, more pronounced texture – also work to veil the two different types of Chantilly lace on the front of the skirt. The way I’ve alternated the laces in those layers creates a two-dimensional, optical illusion effect.
The lace, the extra-fine French tulle, the soft draping – Kendall is classic romance come to life!