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Behind the Dress: Jasmine

Jasmine; strapless ballgown with organza laddering

With each bridal collection, I’m always trying to think about articulating the underlying structure of a dress in a new way. Can a dress have clean architectural lines, and yet still feel soft and organic, full of wildly unpredictable movement? Absolutely!

My ladder technique, like I’ve used in Jasmine, is one way I’ve found to express that simultaneous sense of sculpture and swirl. It commands attention, and yet it’s full of frivolity and fun at the same time.

The strapless ballgown is a very classic silhouette, but when it’s combined with this modern fabric technique—pleated layers of tissue organza with raw edges—it feels more spontaneous and fashion-forward. The gown itself is very softly constructed. Even though there’s a lot of volume in the skirt, it collapses. And the cut edges of the organza are meant to look more deconstructed as well, so that the whole dress has a soft, flyaway quality. It’s edgy, but in a very romantic way.

The sculpted, slightly dropped-waist organza bodice on this dress also has that fluid, swirling sense of movement. I deliberately wanted the back to be very simple and sleek in order to contrast it with the more elaborate piecing on the front – it’s clean and classic. The front of the bodice, heart-shaped and so feminine, has a very tightly pleated version of that spiraling ladder technique. It gradually unfurls in a controlled-yet-chaotic race to the base of the skirt: a whirlpool of organza and tulle. This dress is all about that movement, and above all, playfulness!

JasmineNude satin-­faced organza and Italian tulle strapless ballgown with tissue organza laddering detail | PhotographerMichael Beauplet

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